Friday, April 1, 2011
Tasting 2009 Burgundy
As many of you may know, I have just returned from a trip to Burgundy, France. Burgundy is one of my favorite wine regions, producing many of the best examples of Pino Noir and Chardonnay in the world. The tricky part about Burgundy is that good vintages only happen every other year, and great vintages only pop up two or three times a decade. On top of this, the best wines from Burgundy are among the most expensive in the world, regardless of vintage, so this is not exactly an easy wine to shop for. Now the good news. 2009 was an excellent vintage in Burgundy, with lots of warm weather and an early harvest. I could not have visited at better time, in terms of wine tasting anyway, as most of the wine from the 2009 vintage is still in barrel for another month or two. This gave me the rare opportunity to barrel taste red burgundy to get a idea of the quality. Yes, I did taste quite a bit of luxury priced, lovely, juicy, floral, perfumed nectar that costs more than my school tuition. No, that's not the only thing I did. I really wanted to find great bottles of Burgundy that I could offer my customers, and I did. One of the greatest things about a vintage like 2009 in Burgundy, is that even the inexpensive wines clearly show the quality of the vintage. This is the perfect vintage to introduce people to Pino Noir as the wines are dark in color, loaded with fruit, and unusually full bodied. I knew I would be waiting for a while before I would see any 2009's roll into the Seattle area, so I tracked down some great wines from he 2008 and 2006 vintages to offer at the shop. Keep an eye out for my expanding Burgundy section. Louis
Monday, February 21, 2011
2009 Louis Latour
One of my favorite parts of working in the wine business is attending industry tastings. This gives me the opportunity to taste wines from all over the planet, made from just about every grape variety you could think of. This past week, I was lucky enough to taste through one producers wine, from one great vintage.
The producer was Louis Latour, from Burgundy, and the vintage was 2009. This vintage was near ideal for Burgundy and everyone has been waiting for the wines to hit the market. Louis Latour is a Negociant, meaning they buy grapes and sometimes juice and wine, in order to have enough quantity to meet demand. You see, in Burgundy the vineyard holding tend to be small, thanks to the laws of inheritance, so most cannot afford to make their own wine on such a small scale. Instead, owners of small parcels sell their harvest to Negociants, who have the means to make wine.
Louis Latour is known for clean, crisp, ageworthy wines. They have extensive holdings in the Grand Cru vineyards of Corton, for which they are well known for both their red(Pino Noir) and white(Chardonnay) versions. The reds from Louis Latour are soft, fruity, and very accesible on release. Personnally, I find the most interest in the white wines from Mersault, Batard Montrachet, and Corton Charlemagne. The Mersault is a textbook example, offering a rich mouthfeel, tropical fruits, and a toasty finish. The Batard Montrachet is the longest lived, with flavors of orange peel, minerals, hazelnuts, apple and pear fruits. The Corton Charlemagne is my favorite and is loaded with smokey, steely, almost honeyed citrus fruits.
Louis
The producer was Louis Latour, from Burgundy, and the vintage was 2009. This vintage was near ideal for Burgundy and everyone has been waiting for the wines to hit the market. Louis Latour is a Negociant, meaning they buy grapes and sometimes juice and wine, in order to have enough quantity to meet demand. You see, in Burgundy the vineyard holding tend to be small, thanks to the laws of inheritance, so most cannot afford to make their own wine on such a small scale. Instead, owners of small parcels sell their harvest to Negociants, who have the means to make wine.
Louis Latour is known for clean, crisp, ageworthy wines. They have extensive holdings in the Grand Cru vineyards of Corton, for which they are well known for both their red(Pino Noir) and white(Chardonnay) versions. The reds from Louis Latour are soft, fruity, and very accesible on release. Personnally, I find the most interest in the white wines from Mersault, Batard Montrachet, and Corton Charlemagne. The Mersault is a textbook example, offering a rich mouthfeel, tropical fruits, and a toasty finish. The Batard Montrachet is the longest lived, with flavors of orange peel, minerals, hazelnuts, apple and pear fruits. The Corton Charlemagne is my favorite and is loaded with smokey, steely, almost honeyed citrus fruits.
Louis
Monday, January 31, 2011
Washinton vintage, 2007 or 2008?
I am often presented with the question "how are the 2008 reds from Washington?". Before I get a chance to respond, the second question "2007 and 2005 are better right?" is asked. I've spent a considerable amount of time thinking about the difference between 2007 and 2008. The new edition of Wine Spectator included a vintage chart for Washington, rating 2007 at 96pts and 2008 at 95-100pts. How could this be?
It's true, 2007 produced some of the most cellar worthy reds we have ever seem. Would I agree with the statement "if you didn't make great wine in WA in 2007, then you don't know how to make wine", not so much. Critical decisions present themselves in every vintage, and 2007 was no exception. When did you pick? How much tannin was extracted during fermentation? What was your final alcohol concentration? It all depends on the skill and experience of the grower and winemaker in any vintage.
The 2008 reds from WA are already showing a very accessible personality, and many have very bright acidity. On average, I would say that we will drink the 2008's well before we will even begin to work on the 2007's. Does this make them lesser in quality? I don't think so. I appreciate vintage variation, it's what makes drinking and collecting wine so interesting. If I had to sum up the character of the 2008 vintage, I would say it has immediate charm.
Louis
It's true, 2007 produced some of the most cellar worthy reds we have ever seem. Would I agree with the statement "if you didn't make great wine in WA in 2007, then you don't know how to make wine", not so much. Critical decisions present themselves in every vintage, and 2007 was no exception. When did you pick? How much tannin was extracted during fermentation? What was your final alcohol concentration? It all depends on the skill and experience of the grower and winemaker in any vintage.
The 2008 reds from WA are already showing a very accessible personality, and many have very bright acidity. On average, I would say that we will drink the 2008's well before we will even begin to work on the 2007's. Does this make them lesser in quality? I don't think so. I appreciate vintage variation, it's what makes drinking and collecting wine so interesting. If I had to sum up the character of the 2008 vintage, I would say it has immediate charm.
Louis
Wednesday, January 26, 2011
Italian Chardonnay
The wine world is so broad, it's near impossible to explore every region, let alone the different styles in those regions. One category of wine I am always impressed with is Italian Chardonnay. The funny thing is, it took reading an article in the latest issue of Savour magazine to bring this to my attention. The focus of the issue was tools, techniques, and ingredients used by top chefs. Half way though the issue I came across a small list of Chardonnays that came highly recommended.
Two selections from this list fall into my top ten favorite Chardonnays, the Jermann Chardonnay from Friuli and the Gaja Chardonnay from Peidmonte. The Jermann Chardonnay comes from northeast Italy where the climate is continental, and the soils are white with calcium carbonate. The cold nights of Fruili help maintain acidity late into the season, while the soils impart a distinct minerality. When I first tasted the Gaja bottling, at an industry tasting, I thought they had poured me Pinot Blanc. The earthiness on the nose and delicate, yet rich texture on the palate was unforgettable.
Another Italian winemaker that has mastered the art of making great Chardonnay is Paolo De Marchi, of Isole e Olena. His winery is in the heart of the Chianti region and makes classic wines, in a very modern style. I was lucky enough to meet him during his visit to Washington last year. I was so impressed by his Chardonnay, I had to ask him how he created such a perfect example, from an area not exactly renowned for the quality of it's Chardonnay.
Paolo knew that in the hot climate of Chianti, producing top quality Chardonnay was going to take a lot of work. He travelled to Burgundy to learn how the best wines were crafted. He contacted vine growers in Burgundy to source clones that would ripen properly in the heat. In Burgundy the best wines come from southern slopes that get late day sun, so Paolo did the opposite, planting a dozen different clones on north eastern slopes, to protect the vines from late day sun. The results are quite impressive.
If you would like to explore Italian Chardonnay, any one of these wines is a great starting point.
Louis
Two selections from this list fall into my top ten favorite Chardonnays, the Jermann Chardonnay from Friuli and the Gaja Chardonnay from Peidmonte. The Jermann Chardonnay comes from northeast Italy where the climate is continental, and the soils are white with calcium carbonate. The cold nights of Fruili help maintain acidity late into the season, while the soils impart a distinct minerality. When I first tasted the Gaja bottling, at an industry tasting, I thought they had poured me Pinot Blanc. The earthiness on the nose and delicate, yet rich texture on the palate was unforgettable.
Another Italian winemaker that has mastered the art of making great Chardonnay is Paolo De Marchi, of Isole e Olena. His winery is in the heart of the Chianti region and makes classic wines, in a very modern style. I was lucky enough to meet him during his visit to Washington last year. I was so impressed by his Chardonnay, I had to ask him how he created such a perfect example, from an area not exactly renowned for the quality of it's Chardonnay.
Paolo knew that in the hot climate of Chianti, producing top quality Chardonnay was going to take a lot of work. He travelled to Burgundy to learn how the best wines were crafted. He contacted vine growers in Burgundy to source clones that would ripen properly in the heat. In Burgundy the best wines come from southern slopes that get late day sun, so Paolo did the opposite, planting a dozen different clones on north eastern slopes, to protect the vines from late day sun. The results are quite impressive.
If you would like to explore Italian Chardonnay, any one of these wines is a great starting point.
Louis
Wednesday, January 19, 2011
2009 in France
When it comes down to it, I am very new to the wine world. I've spent the last few years studying everything I can get my hands on about grapes and wines. At times I've spent more hours a day, reading about wine, than I spent at school and work combined. Nevertheless, I was only four years old when the legendary 1982 vintage of Bordeaux was on the vine. When the 1990 Burgundian harvest was safely picked and in the cellar, I was more concerned about the price of the newest video game, than the price of Burgundy futures.
What am I getting at? In my limited years of wine tasting, nothing has impressed me more than the 2009 vintage in France. There are a number of reasons for this, not least is their great early drinkability. In regions like Muscadet, an area that typically doesn't get enough heat to make noteworthy wines, the vintage was almost a once in a lifetime effort. These wines are ripe, laced with minerality, and show lots of fruit. In the Macon and Beaujolais, the wines have a freshness and bright fruit I have never expierienced. I just brought in a declassified Syrah from the northern Rhone, for under twenty dollars, that is just dripping with lavender and blueberries.
I have created a display at the shop, highlighting some of the best 09's to cross my palate as of yet. All are $25 or less, and none will disappoint.
Louis
What am I getting at? In my limited years of wine tasting, nothing has impressed me more than the 2009 vintage in France. There are a number of reasons for this, not least is their great early drinkability. In regions like Muscadet, an area that typically doesn't get enough heat to make noteworthy wines, the vintage was almost a once in a lifetime effort. These wines are ripe, laced with minerality, and show lots of fruit. In the Macon and Beaujolais, the wines have a freshness and bright fruit I have never expierienced. I just brought in a declassified Syrah from the northern Rhone, for under twenty dollars, that is just dripping with lavender and blueberries.
I have created a display at the shop, highlighting some of the best 09's to cross my palate as of yet. All are $25 or less, and none will disappoint.
Louis
Monday, January 17, 2011
The great wines of Burgundy
The red grape of Burgundy, Pino Noir, is probably the most finicky grape on the planet. The number of locations it can be grown successfully, can be counted on one hand. If the weather fails to cooperate during any part of the growing season, the wine will lack the magic these grapes can yield.
To describe, in words, the flavors and textures sealed in a bottle of red Burgundy is like trying to appreciate a great painting by reading about it. It just doesn't work. If I had to give you tasting notes on a 10 or 20 year of bottle from a good vintage, I would say "flowers, baking spices, and ambrosia". The great MW Michael Broadbent describes the flavor of red Burgundy as "beet root" and describes the way the flavors fan out on your palate as a "peacock's tail".
The ability to age gracefully, is one of this wines greatest strengths. Bob Betz shared a story of a small cash of wines discovered when a friend renovated his home. Among the many gems, was a bottle of Clos de Vougeot from the 1890's. He described the wine as fresh and expressive given its age. Another friend described drinking great burgundy by proclaiming that "Bordeaux is from earth, Burgundy is from Mars". I have been lucky enough to drink several 20 to 25 year old bottles that simply shined. There is simply nothing I have tasted that can compare to these bottles.
I had a discussion about red Burgundy with Chris Upchurch of Delille. He offered this quote "If you asked what the best bottle of wine in the world was, I would tell you I don't know, but it probably says Burgundy somewhere on the bottle".
I am on a mission to track down the best bottles of Burgundy to offer our customers. This includes traveling to Burgundy during the end of March. During 2011, each month I will bring in something new (to our store that is) from Burgundy. If you are interested in trying one, stop by or give us a call.
Louis
To describe, in words, the flavors and textures sealed in a bottle of red Burgundy is like trying to appreciate a great painting by reading about it. It just doesn't work. If I had to give you tasting notes on a 10 or 20 year of bottle from a good vintage, I would say "flowers, baking spices, and ambrosia". The great MW Michael Broadbent describes the flavor of red Burgundy as "beet root" and describes the way the flavors fan out on your palate as a "peacock's tail".
The ability to age gracefully, is one of this wines greatest strengths. Bob Betz shared a story of a small cash of wines discovered when a friend renovated his home. Among the many gems, was a bottle of Clos de Vougeot from the 1890's. He described the wine as fresh and expressive given its age. Another friend described drinking great burgundy by proclaiming that "Bordeaux is from earth, Burgundy is from Mars". I have been lucky enough to drink several 20 to 25 year old bottles that simply shined. There is simply nothing I have tasted that can compare to these bottles.
I had a discussion about red Burgundy with Chris Upchurch of Delille. He offered this quote "If you asked what the best bottle of wine in the world was, I would tell you I don't know, but it probably says Burgundy somewhere on the bottle".
I am on a mission to track down the best bottles of Burgundy to offer our customers. This includes traveling to Burgundy during the end of March. During 2011, each month I will bring in something new (to our store that is) from Burgundy. If you are interested in trying one, stop by or give us a call.
Louis
Monday, January 10, 2011
Tranche
If you have not yet heard about Tranche, I would recommend trying a bottle. This winery exercises great patience and only releases wine when they feel it ready to drink. Right now you can buy their 2005 Cabernet and 2006 Chardonnay. The Chardonnay is one of my favorites from WA and is made from grapes harvested from the famous Celilo vineyard. This white reminds me of a Mersault with a little age, showing lots of minerality and depth. The Cabernet is soft and round, with plenty of supporting acidity. If you are feeling like something off the beaten path, try their Barbera.
Louis
Louis
Wednesday, January 5, 2011
Tuesday Tasting Group
Last year I began a tasting group at Fine Wines, due to the fact that the group I had been tasting with lost its space. I do get the chance to taste plenty of wine on the job (that is my job) here at the shop, but nothing seems to replace the education you get from attending a tasting group. Each week I send out an email to specify a grape variety, region, or theme. Sometimes we may taste one variety from several different regions of the world, and other times we may taste several different varieties from one specific region. Everyone shows up with a wine off the list in a brown paper bag and we taste through them. Not knowing exactly what we are tasting, we look for tastes, smells, or textures that may or may not hint at what we are tasting. At the end, we uncover the wines to see how close (or not) we came to identifying them.
This past Tuesday we tasted Syrah. The range of styles, price points, and quality made it one of the best we have held in a while (I always say that). We never have a lack of great bottles, and this week we tasted the 2006 K Royal City Syrah (100 pts), 2007 Cayuse (Cailloux), 2007 Va Piano Syrah, 2007 Tablas Creek Syrah, 2009 St Cosme Cotes du Rhone (100% Syrah), 2007 Saint Joseph, 2007 Rulo Syrah, and two great examples from MacLaren winery in Dry Creek (2007 & 2008). The range of flavors, colors, textures provided a perfect learning experience.
If you would like to join in the fun, either ask me to put you on the email, or simply show up on Tuesday at 5pm. No need to bring a bottle your first time, just bring yourself and an interest in wine!
Louis
This past Tuesday we tasted Syrah. The range of styles, price points, and quality made it one of the best we have held in a while (I always say that). We never have a lack of great bottles, and this week we tasted the 2006 K Royal City Syrah (100 pts), 2007 Cayuse (Cailloux), 2007 Va Piano Syrah, 2007 Tablas Creek Syrah, 2009 St Cosme Cotes du Rhone (100% Syrah), 2007 Saint Joseph, 2007 Rulo Syrah, and two great examples from MacLaren winery in Dry Creek (2007 & 2008). The range of flavors, colors, textures provided a perfect learning experience.
If you would like to join in the fun, either ask me to put you on the email, or simply show up on Tuesday at 5pm. No need to bring a bottle your first time, just bring yourself and an interest in wine!
Louis
Wednesday, December 8, 2010
Updated profile
It came to my attention that my personal profile was in dire need of an update. You see, I have completed my apprenticeship with Betz Family Winery, and now have taken on the responibilities of wine buyer/event planner/wine educator/artistic director/marketing director/superhuman tornado at Fine Wine & Cigars. I'm afraid that soon I will be pressured into joining Facebook.
Louis
Louis
Monday, December 6, 2010
The elusive perfect pairing
There is nothing quite like having the perfect bottle of wine, with the perfect meal. I am always trying to pick a wine that goes perfectly with the meal I'm going to eat. The wine makes the food taste better, and the food brings out the flavors in the wine. The most interesting part for me, is when you are served a wine you typically don't care for, while eating the right food. You wonder what just happened, and take another sip to see if you still feel the same about the wine.
Last night, I ate the most amazing dinner at a friends house. We had carrot soup to start, paired with Betz Besoleil grenache. The wine was fresh and fruity, and really brought out the garrigue notes from the dollop of pesto in the center of our bowls. Next we moved onto the best Cassoulet I have ever come across, with garlic sausage, goose and lamb. A special wine had already been decanted for this main course, a 1989 Jaboulet Hermitage "La Chapelle". Savory notes of brown sugar, minerality, root beer, cherry, and smoke complimented the dish perfectly.
Three servings of the Cassoulet later, a salad was placed in front of me, along with a small glass of dessert wine. The wine was a 2003 late harvest wine from Jurancon France, made from a blend of these three very unusual, Botrytis affected grape varieties: Gros Manseng, Petit Manseng, and Courbu. The salad was buttercrunch lettuce, blue cheese, and hazelnuts, covered in a very flavorful dressing made from hazelnut oil. The result was one of the best food and wine pairings I have ever come across. Botrytis + Hazelnuts + Blue cheese = Heaven.
I don't usually go nuts over dessert wines like Sauternes, Port, or Madeira, but this was amazing. I couldn't get enough of the the wine. In fact, everyone at the table was getting another pour of this medium sweet desert wine. Before I could wrap my brain around just how good this pairing was, I was served an 1982 tawny port. This brought out different flavors in the salad, and the blue cheese just sang. The best food and wine pairings can come from the most unexpected dishes.
Louis
Last night, I ate the most amazing dinner at a friends house. We had carrot soup to start, paired with Betz Besoleil grenache. The wine was fresh and fruity, and really brought out the garrigue notes from the dollop of pesto in the center of our bowls. Next we moved onto the best Cassoulet I have ever come across, with garlic sausage, goose and lamb. A special wine had already been decanted for this main course, a 1989 Jaboulet Hermitage "La Chapelle". Savory notes of brown sugar, minerality, root beer, cherry, and smoke complimented the dish perfectly.
Three servings of the Cassoulet later, a salad was placed in front of me, along with a small glass of dessert wine. The wine was a 2003 late harvest wine from Jurancon France, made from a blend of these three very unusual, Botrytis affected grape varieties: Gros Manseng, Petit Manseng, and Courbu. The salad was buttercrunch lettuce, blue cheese, and hazelnuts, covered in a very flavorful dressing made from hazelnut oil. The result was one of the best food and wine pairings I have ever come across. Botrytis + Hazelnuts + Blue cheese = Heaven.
I don't usually go nuts over dessert wines like Sauternes, Port, or Madeira, but this was amazing. I couldn't get enough of the the wine. In fact, everyone at the table was getting another pour of this medium sweet desert wine. Before I could wrap my brain around just how good this pairing was, I was served an 1982 tawny port. This brought out different flavors in the salad, and the blue cheese just sang. The best food and wine pairings can come from the most unexpected dishes.
Louis
Thursday, December 2, 2010
The value of wine
Wine is my focus of study. Every aspect of wine intrigues me. Every wine producing region in the world is like a piece of a giant puzzle. I never miss the opportunity to taste wine from a region I have never explored. When I do taste a new wine, it is not enough to look at it's color and taste it's flavors. To really get the most enjoyment from a wine that is new to me, I want to know the geographic boundry of where it was made. I want to know about the climate, history, traditions, and maybe even laws that shape how a wine tastes.
The amount of time it takes to get a clear view of of just one tiny piece of the wine puzzle, is substantial. In a very young wine region, like Washington for instance, it may be easier to put your arms around its short history. Many of the most important members of our small industry are still around. You can simply call or email them to get answers to your most important questions!
Other pieces of the wine puzzle are not as easy to get a clear look at. Travel to the schist terraces of Portugal's Douro Valley, where port is made, and you will find that the best areas for wine grape growing were identified in 1756. The steep slate banks of Germany's Mosel River will send you into 16th century, looking for answers about the noble Riesling grape. If you want to explore some of Burgundy's greatest vineyard sites, that produce the most sought after Pino Noir anywhere, you will soon find out that Pino Noir was recognized as the ideal grape for these vineyards 700 years ago!
This is exactly what keeps me interested in wine. The fun of bringing just one piece of the great wine puzzle into focus, is what I enjoy most about wine.
Louis
The amount of time it takes to get a clear view of of just one tiny piece of the wine puzzle, is substantial. In a very young wine region, like Washington for instance, it may be easier to put your arms around its short history. Many of the most important members of our small industry are still around. You can simply call or email them to get answers to your most important questions!
Other pieces of the wine puzzle are not as easy to get a clear look at. Travel to the schist terraces of Portugal's Douro Valley, where port is made, and you will find that the best areas for wine grape growing were identified in 1756. The steep slate banks of Germany's Mosel River will send you into 16th century, looking for answers about the noble Riesling grape. If you want to explore some of Burgundy's greatest vineyard sites, that produce the most sought after Pino Noir anywhere, you will soon find out that Pino Noir was recognized as the ideal grape for these vineyards 700 years ago!
This is exactly what keeps me interested in wine. The fun of bringing just one piece of the great wine puzzle into focus, is what I enjoy most about wine.
Louis
Thursday, November 11, 2010
Harvest Athletes
Wow, harvest is winding down and I'm wondering what just hit me. The 2010 vintage was my first out in the wide, wide world and I can honestly say I had no idea how hard winemakers work! I went into harvest thinking I would have time to post blog entries, take walks around Seward Park, and enjoy my days off. That didn't happen.
Working with the team at Betz Winery is serious business. Everyone there is smart, skilled, and willing to do what it takes to get the job done. During the peak of harvest, we worked six or seven days a week, and we didn't get to go home until the job was done. Don't get me wrong, I loved every minute of it (and still do), but I have a new respect for all the people that make it happen.
Louis
Working with the team at Betz Winery is serious business. Everyone there is smart, skilled, and willing to do what it takes to get the job done. During the peak of harvest, we worked six or seven days a week, and we didn't get to go home until the job was done. Don't get me wrong, I loved every minute of it (and still do), but I have a new respect for all the people that make it happen.
Louis
Thursday, October 7, 2010
Washington and the Hermitage grape
The Syrah grape has found a welcome home, from a viticultural standpoint anyway, in the greater Columbia Valley. Plantings of Syrah are very still very young, with the oldest vines dating back to 1986 at the Red Willow vineyard. Considering that the Washington wine industry is so young, and Syrah plantings are just coming of age, our state has turned out some of the greatest examples of any new world wine region.
Of course Washington was not the first new world producer to popularize varietal labeled Syrah. Australia has been doing this for 50 plus years and experienced a heyday in the 90's with it's Shiraz. It took a lot longer for the US to catch on to the fact that the Syrah grape was capable of producing great wines. Part of the problem was the Syrah vines we had to choose from in the US were of questionable origin at best. In the 80's vines from the Rhone Valley were imported and this began a whole new chapter for the Syrah grape in the US.
Here in Washington the Syrah grape has shown that it is very sensitive to soil and especially climate. While producers of great Washington Cabernet Sauvignon (Betz PDF, Quilceda Creek Cabernet) like to blend from vineyards all over the State to produce the most complex wine, the best Syrah is most often from a single vineyard.
A handful of producers have created examples of Syrah that rival any new world bottling. Cayuse has become a cult wine with a number of offerings from his estate vineyards that are consistently scoring in the high 90's. Bob Betz has three different Syrah's that each highlight a different part of the Columbia Valley; La Serenne (Boushey vineyard), La Cote Rousse (Ceil du Cheval vineyard), and La Cote Patriarche (Red Willow vineyard). Charles Smith has brought considerable attention to Washington State with his range of single vineyard bottlings.
If you haven't explored the wide selection of Washington State Syrah, come in and give one a try. These wines are very friendly when young and don't need the time in bottle that so many Cabernets demand.
Louis
Of course Washington was not the first new world producer to popularize varietal labeled Syrah. Australia has been doing this for 50 plus years and experienced a heyday in the 90's with it's Shiraz. It took a lot longer for the US to catch on to the fact that the Syrah grape was capable of producing great wines. Part of the problem was the Syrah vines we had to choose from in the US were of questionable origin at best. In the 80's vines from the Rhone Valley were imported and this began a whole new chapter for the Syrah grape in the US.
Here in Washington the Syrah grape has shown that it is very sensitive to soil and especially climate. While producers of great Washington Cabernet Sauvignon (Betz PDF, Quilceda Creek Cabernet) like to blend from vineyards all over the State to produce the most complex wine, the best Syrah is most often from a single vineyard.
A handful of producers have created examples of Syrah that rival any new world bottling. Cayuse has become a cult wine with a number of offerings from his estate vineyards that are consistently scoring in the high 90's. Bob Betz has three different Syrah's that each highlight a different part of the Columbia Valley; La Serenne (Boushey vineyard), La Cote Rousse (Ceil du Cheval vineyard), and La Cote Patriarche (Red Willow vineyard). Charles Smith has brought considerable attention to Washington State with his range of single vineyard bottlings.
If you haven't explored the wide selection of Washington State Syrah, come in and give one a try. These wines are very friendly when young and don't need the time in bottle that so many Cabernets demand.
Louis
Sunday, September 19, 2010
Maison Bleue is on a role!
Six months ago, I had never even heard of the winery Maison Bleue, let alone it's talented winemaker Jon Martinez. The first time I even knew this winery existed was when I spotted it at the Taste of Washington. The funny part was I didn't even stop to taste the wine as I was saving my palate for evaluating the benchmark wines of the state! Even funnier was the fact that I'm pretty sure I didn't even take this winery seriously due to the drab label design that must have been attractive to Jon when he picked it.
It was at one of my Tuesday tasting group meetings that I became aware of the incredible talent of winemaker Jon Martinez. Doug and Heather brought the Boushey vineyard Grenache to taste blind and it was just amazing. I hadn't had another Grenache quite like it and was immediately intrigued. Not long after Debbie had him on the roster for our next winemaker event. To make a long story short, the wines of Maison Bleue turned out to be the hit of the event and all showed exceptionally well.
Not long after I had the opportunity to visit Jon at his winery in Prosser. I was visiting the area with other students from the winemaking program at SSCC and stopped in to taste the wines and get some insight from the winemaker. Jon started off by pouring us his late harvest Marsanne that just blew everyone away. This wine had loads of apple and pear peel, tons of citrus notes, and a floral character you could not ignore. Next we tasted Grenache from a cool site, Boushey vineyard, followed by the same varietal from a considerably warmer site, Alder ridge. The contrast of the two wines was very unique and highlighted the fact that Jon is a master of capturing the nuance of each site. Jon did the same with Syrah, starting us with a pour of Boushey vineyard Syrah, followed again by his Alder Ridge offering.
Just recently Jon has begun to receive acclaim from local and national critics and I think he is one to keep an eye on. If you are interested in trying one of his seamless wines, you will not be disappointed with his La Montagnette Grenache at under $20. If you are more into white wines, his Chardonnay is loaded with minerality and touched with just the right amount of oak.
Louis
It was at one of my Tuesday tasting group meetings that I became aware of the incredible talent of winemaker Jon Martinez. Doug and Heather brought the Boushey vineyard Grenache to taste blind and it was just amazing. I hadn't had another Grenache quite like it and was immediately intrigued. Not long after Debbie had him on the roster for our next winemaker event. To make a long story short, the wines of Maison Bleue turned out to be the hit of the event and all showed exceptionally well.
Not long after I had the opportunity to visit Jon at his winery in Prosser. I was visiting the area with other students from the winemaking program at SSCC and stopped in to taste the wines and get some insight from the winemaker. Jon started off by pouring us his late harvest Marsanne that just blew everyone away. This wine had loads of apple and pear peel, tons of citrus notes, and a floral character you could not ignore. Next we tasted Grenache from a cool site, Boushey vineyard, followed by the same varietal from a considerably warmer site, Alder ridge. The contrast of the two wines was very unique and highlighted the fact that Jon is a master of capturing the nuance of each site. Jon did the same with Syrah, starting us with a pour of Boushey vineyard Syrah, followed again by his Alder Ridge offering.
Just recently Jon has begun to receive acclaim from local and national critics and I think he is one to keep an eye on. If you are interested in trying one of his seamless wines, you will not be disappointed with his La Montagnette Grenache at under $20. If you are more into white wines, his Chardonnay is loaded with minerality and touched with just the right amount of oak.
Louis
Wednesday, September 15, 2010
Quality on the rise in Washington
The buzz is still in the air from Jay Miller's recent visit to Washington, and for good reason. Washington has once again hit 100 point status with the 2007 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon. Now Quilceda has hit 100 before, but a large number of Washington wineries were awarded some of their highest scores ever on this visit. I have heard time and again that the 2007 vintage in Washington was the reason for the quality of these wines. Yes, 2007 was a mighty fine vintage with many structured wines capable of some serious cellar time. The thing is, I have tasted many wines from the 2008 vintage that just plain shined and in some cases surpassed the quality of the 2007's.
The quality of Washington wine is going up. More students, like myself, are graduating from enology and viticulture programs every year than ever before. Winemakers are taking advantage of these programs as well to increase their knowledge of making quality wine. These scores are not simply the product of one good vintage. These scores are the reflection of our very young wine region beginning to get better.
Louis
The quality of Washington wine is going up. More students, like myself, are graduating from enology and viticulture programs every year than ever before. Winemakers are taking advantage of these programs as well to increase their knowledge of making quality wine. These scores are not simply the product of one good vintage. These scores are the reflection of our very young wine region beginning to get better.
Louis
Saturday, September 4, 2010
The Grandest of Washington vineyards
Two weeks ago I finally got the chance to visit some of Washington's greatest vineyards. This is something I have always wanted to do in order to make a greater connection with the wines I admire so much. This trip took me to such legendary names as Red Willow, Alder Ridge, Ciel du Cheval, and Boushey to name a few. Using the short time I had at each vineyard I noted just about everything aspect possible including training method, cordon height, TPA (tons per acre), clusters per shoot, size of fruit zone, cluster size, berry size, maturity, and taste of the fruit.
As I looked for similarities from one vineyard to the next, I could only find one common thread between all the locations I visited, no two growers were alike. Of course some of this must have to do with the requirements of each site. For instance cooler sites might leave less canopy cover than hotter sites that need more shade from the sun. A couple growers we talked with left more crop than they needed because they expect bird and animal loss every year.
As we arrived at each vineyard site, I got excited thinking that some day the rest of the world was going to find out about the quality of Washington wines. Standing in the lower block of Boushey vineyard, I can't help but to compare the fruit quality to the best of California, Australia, and even the legendary hills of Hermitage. Climbing a steep vineyard slope at Red Willow, known as the '86 Syrah block, I think to myself that this fruit is as good as any Syrah in the world.
Standing at the entrance to Ciel du Cheval at 9am waiting to comb through this hallowed ground, I thought of my Jancis Robinson book sitting on my coffee table at home. It's called Vines, Grapes, and Wines and features a hand drawn map of the most famed piece of soil in the Napa Valley, the Rutherford Bench. This detailed map shows each vineyard site from Robert Mondavi to the UC Davis research vineyards along it's three mile stretch. I have no doubt that this map is hanging on many a wall in every country in the world.
During our two hours at Ciel du Cheval, I gazed up the hill at Col Solare, peered at the back breaking Grand Reve vineyards, and got a close look at old fan trained vines of Mourvedre. Over the course of the day I made my way from Ciel du Cheval, into the tall vines of Kiona, and worked my way through the old block of Cabernet Sauvignon at Klipsun vineyard. This block of Cabernet at Klipsun was chosen by Andre Tchelistcheff as an ideal site for growing top quality Cabernet Sauvignon.
I can't help from wondering when a map of these grand Washington vineyards will grace the walls of wineshops in Paris, London, Napa, or Amsterdam? What will this bench of vineyards on the top of Red Mountain be known as?
Louis
As I looked for similarities from one vineyard to the next, I could only find one common thread between all the locations I visited, no two growers were alike. Of course some of this must have to do with the requirements of each site. For instance cooler sites might leave less canopy cover than hotter sites that need more shade from the sun. A couple growers we talked with left more crop than they needed because they expect bird and animal loss every year.
As we arrived at each vineyard site, I got excited thinking that some day the rest of the world was going to find out about the quality of Washington wines. Standing in the lower block of Boushey vineyard, I can't help but to compare the fruit quality to the best of California, Australia, and even the legendary hills of Hermitage. Climbing a steep vineyard slope at Red Willow, known as the '86 Syrah block, I think to myself that this fruit is as good as any Syrah in the world.
Standing at the entrance to Ciel du Cheval at 9am waiting to comb through this hallowed ground, I thought of my Jancis Robinson book sitting on my coffee table at home. It's called Vines, Grapes, and Wines and features a hand drawn map of the most famed piece of soil in the Napa Valley, the Rutherford Bench. This detailed map shows each vineyard site from Robert Mondavi to the UC Davis research vineyards along it's three mile stretch. I have no doubt that this map is hanging on many a wall in every country in the world.
During our two hours at Ciel du Cheval, I gazed up the hill at Col Solare, peered at the back breaking Grand Reve vineyards, and got a close look at old fan trained vines of Mourvedre. Over the course of the day I made my way from Ciel du Cheval, into the tall vines of Kiona, and worked my way through the old block of Cabernet Sauvignon at Klipsun vineyard. This block of Cabernet at Klipsun was chosen by Andre Tchelistcheff as an ideal site for growing top quality Cabernet Sauvignon.
I can't help from wondering when a map of these grand Washington vineyards will grace the walls of wineshops in Paris, London, Napa, or Amsterdam? What will this bench of vineyards on the top of Red Mountain be known as?
Louis
Thursday, August 19, 2010
Meeting David Ramey
When I caught wind of the fact that David Ramey was coming to Seattle for Industry tasting at the Waterfront, I was quick to sign up. I have always been a fan of the Ramey wines, especially the work he does with Chardonnay, and would never miss the chance to taste his whole portfolio.
In case you don't know who David Ramey is, or have never had the opportunity to taste his elegant wines, let me explain. David graduated from UC Davis in 1979 and immediately set his sights on classic French wine region of Bordeaux. He went to work for the Moueix family learning everything he could about the winemaking techniques utilized at the esteemed Chateau Petrus. On returning from Bordeaux, David concentrated on honing his skills at a number of California wineries and in the process learned the finer points of building a strong brand and creating a house style.
David had an advantage over many others in the business with his experience not only at Davis, but Bordeaux as well, and created a style that could be best described as a combination of old world and new. The list of wineries David helped elevate to top quality status includes Chalk Hill, Matanzas Creek, Dominus Estate (owned by the Moueix family), and Rudd.
During the short 90 minute tasting, David explained in detail how each different wine is crafted and why each step is so important. David stopped every 15 minutes, allowing anyone in the audience to ask questions for which he was not shy about answering.
While explaining how the Chardonnay is crafted, David remembered visiting Burgundy to get to the heart of how the best whites of this region are crafted. He was very concerned with how much new oak was used and why. It didn't take long for David to figure out just why the majority of winemakers used the same technique. When making the most inexpensive whites of the region,Bourgogne Blanc, no new oak was used at all. This is simply because you cannot fetch a high enough price for your wine to justify the use of any new oak at all. When you step up to the next quality level, Village, the amount of new oak increases to 25 to 33%. The next level of quality is from a single vineyard, called Premier Cru, and often sees 50% new oak. The very best white wine crafted in Burgundy is from a single vineyard, classified as Grand Cru, and usually sees 100% new oak.
David uses this Philosophy when crafting his own wines. When making a regional wine, for instance the Russian River Chardonnay, David uses maybe 25% new oak. This is not just because of price point, although he says it does have a little to do with it, but also because these wines don't have the same concentration at his single vineyards wines. When crafting say the Hyde vineyard or Hudson vineyard Chardonnay, much more new oak is utilized. This is because the best fruit from the oldest vines is used, the younger vines go into the regional wine, and also because the higher shelf price gives him the ability to use more new oak.
It was a real treat to get the chance to meet a legendary winemaker, taste through his wines, and get some insight into the winemaking process. If you have never tried a Chardonnay made by David Ramey, start out with either his Carneros or Russian River Bottling. Both of these bottles are classic examples of what California Chardonnay can be when done well. Both of these wines are bottled unfiltered, not overoaked, allowed to go through malolactic fermentation naturally, and drink just beautifully.
Louis
In case you don't know who David Ramey is, or have never had the opportunity to taste his elegant wines, let me explain. David graduated from UC Davis in 1979 and immediately set his sights on classic French wine region of Bordeaux. He went to work for the Moueix family learning everything he could about the winemaking techniques utilized at the esteemed Chateau Petrus. On returning from Bordeaux, David concentrated on honing his skills at a number of California wineries and in the process learned the finer points of building a strong brand and creating a house style.
David had an advantage over many others in the business with his experience not only at Davis, but Bordeaux as well, and created a style that could be best described as a combination of old world and new. The list of wineries David helped elevate to top quality status includes Chalk Hill, Matanzas Creek, Dominus Estate (owned by the Moueix family), and Rudd.
During the short 90 minute tasting, David explained in detail how each different wine is crafted and why each step is so important. David stopped every 15 minutes, allowing anyone in the audience to ask questions for which he was not shy about answering.
While explaining how the Chardonnay is crafted, David remembered visiting Burgundy to get to the heart of how the best whites of this region are crafted. He was very concerned with how much new oak was used and why. It didn't take long for David to figure out just why the majority of winemakers used the same technique. When making the most inexpensive whites of the region,Bourgogne Blanc, no new oak was used at all. This is simply because you cannot fetch a high enough price for your wine to justify the use of any new oak at all. When you step up to the next quality level, Village, the amount of new oak increases to 25 to 33%. The next level of quality is from a single vineyard, called Premier Cru, and often sees 50% new oak. The very best white wine crafted in Burgundy is from a single vineyard, classified as Grand Cru, and usually sees 100% new oak.
David uses this Philosophy when crafting his own wines. When making a regional wine, for instance the Russian River Chardonnay, David uses maybe 25% new oak. This is not just because of price point, although he says it does have a little to do with it, but also because these wines don't have the same concentration at his single vineyards wines. When crafting say the Hyde vineyard or Hudson vineyard Chardonnay, much more new oak is utilized. This is because the best fruit from the oldest vines is used, the younger vines go into the regional wine, and also because the higher shelf price gives him the ability to use more new oak.
It was a real treat to get the chance to meet a legendary winemaker, taste through his wines, and get some insight into the winemaking process. If you have never tried a Chardonnay made by David Ramey, start out with either his Carneros or Russian River Bottling. Both of these bottles are classic examples of what California Chardonnay can be when done well. Both of these wines are bottled unfiltered, not overoaked, allowed to go through malolactic fermentation naturally, and drink just beautifully.
Louis
Sunday, August 1, 2010
Have you heard about Syncline Wine Cellars ?
Two years ago I had never even heard of Syncline wines. I was pooring WA wines at a Friday night tasting and the 2006 Syncline Columbia Valley Syrah crossed my palate for the first time. Wow, what a beautiful, expressive, balanced wine! My favorite part about this wine was the fact that it just kept changing as the night progressed. The wine started out with delicate notes of blackberry and vanilla, then opening up into waves of tobacco, Bing cherries, and minerality. I was an instant fan of Syncline.
Over the past two years I have had the opportunity to taste through just about everything this great wine making team has produced. Poppy and James have a passion for every wine they craft, and the quality is top notch at every price level. The entry level wines are called Subduction Red and Subduction White. They are both blends of Rhone varietals, released young to retain the bright flavors and supporting acidity that make them a perfect match for so many foods.
Besides the amazing Columbia Valley Syrah, they also craft a single vineyard Syrah from McKinley Springs in the Horse Heaven Hills. Also from the Horse Heaven Hills comes a Mourvedre that has gained a cult following. This wine shows all the earth and forest floor you would expect from this grape, and also enough minerality to allow it to stand on it's own. Cuvee Elena is a Chateauneuf-du-Pape style blend that offers plenty of light red fruits and spice. One of my favorite wines to date is a blend of Grenache and Carignan that drinks so nicely by itself or with a meal. The Pino Noir is also a must try.
Syncline does exceptionally well with white grapes as well, making bright examples they release shortly after the vintage to show off the youthful character they so love to capture. The 2009 vintage of single varietal whites is already on the shelf and includes a beautiful Viognier, a rich Roussanne, and even a very interesting grape called Gruner Veltliner from Austria. Gruner is the mainstay white wine in Austria and is a favorite of Sommeliers everywhere.
If you are ever looking to take a wine tasting trip off the beaten path, visit Syncline's winery and tasting room at the Columbia Gorge. Green construction was the goal and the atmosphere is friendly. If your interested in a bottle of Syncline wine, stop by the shop.
Louis
Over the past two years I have had the opportunity to taste through just about everything this great wine making team has produced. Poppy and James have a passion for every wine they craft, and the quality is top notch at every price level. The entry level wines are called Subduction Red and Subduction White. They are both blends of Rhone varietals, released young to retain the bright flavors and supporting acidity that make them a perfect match for so many foods.
Besides the amazing Columbia Valley Syrah, they also craft a single vineyard Syrah from McKinley Springs in the Horse Heaven Hills. Also from the Horse Heaven Hills comes a Mourvedre that has gained a cult following. This wine shows all the earth and forest floor you would expect from this grape, and also enough minerality to allow it to stand on it's own. Cuvee Elena is a Chateauneuf-du-Pape style blend that offers plenty of light red fruits and spice. One of my favorite wines to date is a blend of Grenache and Carignan that drinks so nicely by itself or with a meal. The Pino Noir is also a must try.
Syncline does exceptionally well with white grapes as well, making bright examples they release shortly after the vintage to show off the youthful character they so love to capture. The 2009 vintage of single varietal whites is already on the shelf and includes a beautiful Viognier, a rich Roussanne, and even a very interesting grape called Gruner Veltliner from Austria. Gruner is the mainstay white wine in Austria and is a favorite of Sommeliers everywhere.
If you are ever looking to take a wine tasting trip off the beaten path, visit Syncline's winery and tasting room at the Columbia Gorge. Green construction was the goal and the atmosphere is friendly. If your interested in a bottle of Syncline wine, stop by the shop.
Louis
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